Nov. 7-13: Back to La Paz and Goodbye Baja

On Nov. 7th (day 38), Danielle and I + MinEssa left the public beach between the Cabos and headed to Cabo San Lucas, the Cancun of Baja California Sur. We drove into the city and parked along a main street. The four of us went into Starbucks to do some research and get some work done. I especially went about finding a print shop in order to work on my Prints from the Road series. As the day progressed, MinEssa and us went our separate ways, as Danielle and I ran around the city getting groceries and lunch at Costco, stopping at Walmart, and trying to find somewhere to get prints done. Eventually we returned to the downtown area and found a print shop. However, given that they wouldn't be done by 18:00, we had to hang around for a few hours.

Finding ourselves with time to kill, normally we would wander around the city and see what there is to see. In this instance, however, we had no motivation at all to explore around Cabo San Lucas. In my opinion, it really sucks. If you're into very expensive bougie accommodations and streets filled with tourist traps and unrelenting hawkers, come to Cabo, you'll love it. Maybe the city has more to offer, but for someone like me, I wasn't in the mood to look for it. So, instead of wandering around, we went right back to Starbucks and worked on our computers until around 17:00, when I walked over to the print shop to see if they'd finished. They had, so we decided to leave the city and try to find MinEssa in the town of Todos Santos, at a cheap campsite we'd found online.

We left Cabo around 17:30, as the sun was beginning to set. If one is ever to read about driving in Mexico, there's one rule that is preached religiously, and for good reason: don't drive at night. The great amount of potholes and livestock on the road coupled with a lack of street lighting make driving in the day at times treacherous enough. This was the first time we drove at night in Latin America, and luckily it was along some of the most-driven, best highways on the peninsula. The high concentration of tourist infrastructure in the area and lack of farms also leads to a low amount of livestock, and so the trip went well. That being said, I definitely don't recommend you drive after dark if in Mexico (or most of the other countries we have driven in on this trip) – at the very least, you'll be giving your suspension a serious workout that it doesn't want.

As the sun set with a fiery red over the Pacific, we drove through the fading light, arriving in Todos Santos to find a campground we'd researched beforehand and MinEssa. We chatted about the day and spoke with the owner of the campground as well as paid. We showered, and slept in the somewhat strange little campground surrounded by residential area and dirt roads.

The next day (day 39) we left the campground and explored the town of Todos Santos, visiting the real Hotel California as well as some of the art galleries, bookstores, and other shops. We then headed to a beach a little out of town where we spent the afternoon and evening watching surfers, playing cards, reading, and having a couple drinks.

The next morning (day 40) we left the beach and headed back into the town and grabbed coffee and wifi at a shop in town. Using the wifi, we all booked a hotel room at Hotel One in La Paz, in order to have a basecamp to organize our departure from the peninsula. However, we booked the room for the 11th, and had a couple days to kill. So, we drove from Todos Santos back to La Paz and headed to the Bay of Balandra, a very famous bay which is incredibly shallow the entire way around, allowing one to walk across it; which I did while there. We spent the greater part of the day hanging out at the beach, until driving a few minutes away finding a beach with a few bars breaking up the sand. We spent the night there, getting a couple drinks at one of the bars and chatting with some of the gringos who lived in the hills close by.

On Nov. 10th (day 41), we awoke at the beach and climbed a few hills close-by and then spent half the day hanging out. As the day went on, I was eager to try out the snorkels Danielle and I had bought in San Juan del Cabo, and so Min and I went exploring down the beach to find somewhere to snorkel. We found a bay very close to where we had stayed the night before, which was full of fish and coral. We took a quick exploratory dip and then returned to the girls to tell them of our discovery. We then moved camp and spent the afternoon doing some of the best snorkelling of our lives. We spent the night on the beach by the reef, ready to return to La Paz the next day.

When we returned to La Paz, we didn't do too much except get some groceries as well as buy our tickets for our exit from the peninsula. We stayed once again at the Hotel One, but this time sharing a room with MinEssa in order to save costs. After hanging out in La Paz for a few days, we headed to the Baja Ferries terminal on the 13th around 18:00, ready for our 20:00 sailing to Mazatlan, Sinaloa on the mainland.

Our camp spot on the 10th, just a little out of La Paz.

Sunrise at our camp spot.

The beach we camped at as seen from the hill we climbed. The small bars visible.

The same beach with the expanse of sand where we camped more visible. The rocks jutting out on the right side is where we found the coral reef and snorkeled.

Bonus Photo: Where we camped close to La Paz. The reef was basically right behind us. Photo Credit: Danielle Seeliger.